Review of anti aging cosmetic creams containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)

Anti aging cosmetics that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have become widely used in the treatment of aging skin despite many unanswered questions about their safety. It is marketed for a diversity of purposes, such as smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin quality and tone and unblocking and cleansing pores. Recently, a study sponsored by the cosmetics industry indicates that these products may make customers more sensitive to sunlight and especially to the ultraviolet (UV) radiation component of sunlight. UV exposure can damage the aging skin and at high doses, especially over a long period, can cause skin cancer. FDA is currently evaluating this study and is pursuing additional studies that will make sure these products are safe for consumers to use. It is wise to use sun protection before going into the sun. Adequate sun protection includes: wearing a hat with a brim of at least four inches, wearing lightweight sun protective clothing, including long sleeves, and applying a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15. Sunscreens should be reapplied after excessive sweating or swimming. It is especially important to use effective sun protection if you are going to the beach and will be exposed to high levels of UV radiation.

How do AHAs work?

Anti aging cosmetic products containing AHA cause exfoliation. The amount of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its pH, and other ingredients in the product.

Products with therapeutic claims

Some products containing AHAs have been marketed with intended use such as treating acne, reducing scars, and lightening discolorations. Among these are some products marketed as "skin peelers," which may contain relatively high concentrations of AHAs or other acids and are designed to remove the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin). Products that are intended to affect the structure or any function of the body are drugs under the FDA law. For example, products intended for use as acne treatments or skin lighteners are considered drugs.

Reported adverse events related to AHAs in the US

The food and drug administration received complaints about adverse dermatologic experience for anti aging cosmetic products containing AHA since 1992. The reported adverse experiences included burning, dermatitis or rash, swelling, pigmentary changes, blisters or welts, skin peeling, itching, irritation or tenderness, chemical burns, and increased sunburn. The more serious adverse reactions appear to occur most often with products that cause the greatest degree of exfoliation, such as "skin peelers."

Safety guidelines for cosmetic products containing AHAs

When purchasing anti aging product containing AHA it is important to follow the direction for use carefully and read any warning statements on the label. For anti aging product containing AHAs, it is advisable to use sun protection.
FDA recommends that any product containing AHA will have labeling alert such as: This product contains an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that may increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards.
 

Anti aging product containing the AHAs glycolic and lactic acid are safe for use by consumers if:

• The AHA concentration is less than 10 percent.
• The final cosmetic product has a pH greater than 3.5.

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